Tucson Plumbers Disassemble The Toilets

Toilet Services in Tucson

Wrap friction tape around the chrome nut at the base of the handle and loosen it with a pipe wrench so you can remove the handle.

Removing a Toilet

We at Tucson Plumbers make you aware that be careful to note the exact position of all parts inside the handle base so that you can reassemble them properly. Take off the ring-type face washer. If it is worn, replace it. Unscrew the inside nut that holds the plunger and handle together and remove the bushing that retains the handle spring and seal. Experts Tucson Plumbers replace the spring or seal if either is worn. Start putting the handle together again by securing the spring and seal to the bushing. Insert the plunger in the hushing and lock the handle to it with the handle nut. Position the ring washer and insert the handle assembly in the valve body. Tighten the chrome collar around the handle.
In the event that you are replacing an old toilet, the connections are not difficult to make, providing the new toilet has the same rough-in as the old one. Rough-in is the distance from the finished wall to the center of the flange that connects the toilet bowl to its drain. In most cases the rough-in is 12 inches. You can determine the rough-in of any toilet by measuring from the face of the finished wall to the nearest bolt in the base of the unit. Therefore, if you are in Tucson lives a stress free life with all the advices of professional plumbers, for instance, using a DWV system.
When dismantling a toilet, first shut off the water supply valve. Flush the toilet and sponge out both the tank and bowl. Next, undo the coupling that connects the water supply to the water tank. Plumbing services of various plumbing company are always beside you to handle your plumbing problem. If the toilet is an old one, the tank is probably linked to the bowl with an Eli and has some sort of connection on the wall to support the tank. First loosen the Eli couplings, then all of the connections holding the tank to the wall. You can now lift the tank away from the bowl. There are porcelain caps glued to each side of the toilet bowl base. Pry each of them up with a screwdriver blade and loosen the nuts beneath them.
You may need a chisel or knife to scrape the sealing compound around the base of the bowl so you can loosen it from the floor. When it is loose, the bowl can be lifted vertically off the bolts. The bowl is heavy, so get a good grip on it. Now remove the bolts and gasket that surround the lead drainpipe. The bolts will come free if you rotate the ferrule until their heads are centered in the wide part of the slots. Clean the ferrule and the area around it, and examine the lead bend carefully for any signs of damage. If the lead is split, scrape the area with a knife until the lead is a bright silvery color. Rub ordinary shoe polish (any color will do) around the brightened area so that you create a kind of dam to keep the solder from running off the pipe. Use a propane torch to heat the damaged area, and then hold a bar of solder near the damaged spot. Apply flame to the solder until it begins to sag, then rub it against the lead bend and leave a mound of solder over the damaged area. Fold a piece of paper into a pad and wipe the solder smooth. If necessary, reheat the solder and continue wiping until you have a smooth patch.
When the ferrule plate is clean, you can replace it on the bolts. Rotate the plate until the bolts are seated in the narrow portion of the slots. The bolts should be vertical and in line with the holes in the base of the toilet bowl similarly, while handling pipe vises. If they do not stand upright, you can hold them in place with globs of putty around their bases.